Pattern Grading: Scaling Clothing Patterns Across Sizes and Heights

Pattern grading is the process of scaling a base size into the required size range and height sets. I perform grading in CAD and verify fit in 3D to avoid distortion and inaccuracies.

The most common scaling method is pattern grading, where patterns for other sizes are derived from the base size pieces by increasing/decreasing them using increments at key construction points. The drawback is that patterns created with between-size increments often develop inaccuracies: connections and balance characteristics can be affected, and overall quality may deteriorate. As a result, a specialist has to spend additional time correcting them.

In the CAD system Gratsiia, pattern scaling is performed by rebuilding the pattern according to measurement parameters. The system solves this task automatically—quickly and accurately.
The software generates the construction and the full set of pieces for each size by replaying the recorded drafting process with the corresponding measurement values.

The key to high-quality CAD grading is a correctly defined drafting algorithm created by the patternmaker. Then grading is performed evenly while maintaining body proportions.

Using 3D, I visually verified grading from size XS to XL.
As a result, I can see a logical, smooth distribution of grading across different sizes.

This makes it possible to evaluate fit across different sizes/heights, finalize the size range for your models, and even test the same model on different heights to determine the best final garment length.

This service can be included in the development of a pattern collection and will help you decide on the size range for your future collection.

During Russia’s aggression, I actively created patterns for our defenders: UAF winter uniform, UAF summer special suit, men’s thermal underwear, and much more. All of these patterns are available instantly in my digital pattern shop at prices significantly lower than custom pattern development.

All proceeds from pattern sales go toward growing the business, donations to the army, and allow me to dedicate more time to developing new military patterns.